Watch and leard

Yesterday I was watching the documentary ‘Born into Brothels’ from Ross Kauffman and Zana Briski.

‘Born into Brothels’ follow 8 kids as they discover photography and thus learn to look at their world differently. These photographs are a pure incursion into the soul of these kids and genuine expression of beauty and talent.

So fare, this project help put these kids through school. The project proved so successful that the organizers decided to help under privileged kids from other country such as Egypt or Zambia.

You can view the kids pictures and make donations to support further development of the project by visiting http://www.kids-with-cameras.org/


More then an inspirational story, this is also a good demonstration that candour is one of the best qualities a photograph can have. We should all watch and learn… H.

Vegetal base armour

So my april travel plan are yet again changing. Am not even sure anymore I'll go anywhere :-( Really keeping my finger cross here!

Anyhow. In my last post I was talking about the very unique experience of assisting to lacquer harvest. It then dawn on me that it might be a good idea to post a little more information on lacquer so here it is!

Chinese are the first ones who used natural lacquer as a varnish to protect their weapons. The use of the resin however quickly extended to every-day life objects and furniture thanks to its aesthetic and protective properties. Not surprising knowing that this resin forms a completely pore less and insoluble film on all natural surface it is applied on. Objects that are varnish are thus protected against light, air and most importantly time damage.

This new technique quickly extended to all of Southeast Asia. It would have appeared in Vietnam around the 15th century. There, the use of this natural varnish is quickly integrated in the country crafting tradition to the point of becoming a symbol of Vietnamese art for the rest of the world.

The production and use of the lacquer is a very complex process that requires a particular know-how not learned in any school. Rather, the tapper transmits their heritage from generation to generation. And no technological development can be use : the natural resin is extremely fragile and must be harvested by hand.

Despite all of the natural lacquer strengths, a majority of artists import synthetic varnish from China instead of using local ones, endangering traditional production and the families making a living from it. Some blame its high toxicity, sometime responsible for skin allergy. Others claims that the high price of Vietnamese varnish is part of the problem.

However, natural lacquer price is much lower in Vietnam then it is, for example, in Japan or China. And surprisingly, these countries’s lacquer production doesn’t seem to be weakening as much as Vietnam’s is. The problem thus seems to be elsewhere. Particularly at the increasing need of varnish for touristic markets and imports that requires a fast and constant supply.

Needless to say that the traditional harvesting methods are slow – a good tree gives a maximum of 200g of resin a year – and not very profitable as per the new economic standards. Artists and institutions then turn to other source to make up for the product shortage and the natural varnish can now barely hold a spot in this new competitive market.

Next post : Driving the coast down to Nha Trang

H.

Bleeding trees

The next morning, we got up early and were lucky enough to assis the lacquer harvesting, witnesses of a timeless tradition transmitted in this family for generations.

The production and use of the lacquer is a very complex process that requires a particular know-how not learned in any school. Rather, the tapper transmits their heritage from generation to generation. And no technological development can be use : the natural resin is extremely fragile and must be harvested by hand.

So every morning, around 3am– sunlight is very damaging for the resin – the uncles leave the house and make their way to the plantation.

Two steps are necessary to complete the harvest. First the uncles must do “V” shaped incision of approximately 5cm depth directly in the trunk of the tree to collect the valuable resin. Which would explain why traditionally, tappers are called bleeder… Like maple water, the resin runs along the notch and is collect in a seashell made cup simply planted in the tree.

The resin needs to run for a few hours before the uncles can go back and collect it. This step is done by using a small brush to transfer the product in a hermetic container where it will be stored until further use. Harvesting can be carried out all year long although winter months usually prove less productive. However, a tree is never harvested two days in a row. A pause of three to fours days between each notch is necessary to allow the tree to regenerate.

Several additional stages are essential to turn the natural resin into high quality lacquer. It first needs to be filtered before it can get churned for several hours. Once that is finished, the resin must then be mixed with various types of natural oils before it is ready to use.

Next post : the origine of natural lacquer and the difficulties producer have to face. Have a good monday everyone! H.

Higher!

When came back from our nice cruise in Halong bay just in time to meet our group for what turned out to be the BEST part of this trip...

Off we were up north to the Yen Bai province for a three-day visit to the hill tribes. This visit was special in many ways: not only were we to live with some family of the Dao community but also were to witness the century-old tradition of lacquer harvesting.

We drove a little over three hours on the back roads north of Hanoi to reach the tapper’s hideaway. The ride took us far away from the noise and pollution of Hanoi and allowed us to saunter postcard like scenery. Next to us, the Red river, then the Clear River, and finally the Black river. To our left, the calm and grey lazy water reflects a red setting sun. To our right, field worker are slowly getting back home, walking on a dam build to protect the fields and dwellings. Magical.

We arrived at destination in Song Thao as the sun completely sets. We were obviously expected: glasses are filled as soon as we step in the courtyard next to the old tapper’s house. Our host happily hugs one of the tapper and introduces him as is “uncle”. We are here among family, the uncle smiles around and, for a second, the language barrier disappeared. After the long road, our first meal is welcome and whatever shyness one might had quickly dissolved in the general relaxed and family atmosphere. This was priceless, and this was only the beginning...

H.

Ridding the dragon in Halong

After a few days in Hanoi we decided to get out of town and reserved a cruise in Halong Bay.

This is a very popular activity with tourists, and after being there I certainly can understand why.

Halong Bay translates into “dragon descending into the sea.” Legend has it that they bay was created by a swirling dragon tail that gouged valleys and crevasses while the dragon was fighting the chinese invasion. When the Dragon finally plunged in the sea, water filled in the wholes, thus creating this amazing landscape.

Aery looking at dusk or down, the formation offers a constantly changing landscape one could explore for days.

Cruise can very easily by hire from one the many travel agencies in Hanoi. When booking your cruise, keep in mind you’ll have to spend half a day on the road from and to Hanoi city before reaching Halong Bay. So you might want to reconsider before booking a two-day trip…


Also keep in mind that such high tourism demand put an enormous pressure on the ecosystem. If possible, try to go with one of the eco-friendly tour operator. The Ecoboat is a good alternative choice.

Well, that’s it for today. Have a good one everyone! H.

Incredible body of work

One of my favourite things to do when I have time to spare is to wander the Internet in search of photographic inspiration. After all, it is by constantly challenging himself that one just might improve.

This also has to do with the fact that last week I went out with a good buddy of mine and fellow shutter bug and we spent most of the evening trying to figure out what our photography was all about... Turned out that once you mentioned the obvious reason – capturing the essence of life, culture, playing with light, creativity and so on – defining your UNIQUE style is something else.

So until I’ve come up with something half decent about my own pictures, I’ve decided to share inspiration and links with you all as part of an exercise consisting of defining what really turns me on when it comes to photography on a regular basis.

The first photographer feature in this new column is from my hometown. I came across his website totally by luck and am sure glad I did. Sylvain Lefebvre’s work is – in my humble opinion – the perfect balance between photojournalism and art photography. You can view some of his shots HERE.

H.

Chilling in Hanoi

Like I said in my previous post, Hanoi can be a little bit overwhelming for us travellers. Which is why the many lakes and little peace oasis one can find all over the city.

The most famous of those might just be Hoan Kiem Lake, located right in the middle of the old quarter of Hanoi. On top of a nice little temple, your bound to see students working on their drawing skills or stopping at Ngoc Son Temple for a prayer. Surrounded by beautiful mature trees, the place can offer a beautiful shaded spot to rest.




Right next to the Ho Chi Ming mausoleum sits the Literature Temple. Founded in 1070 to honour scholars and man of literature, the temple and small garden all around it is another nice and quiet place to escape the city’s turmoil.


It is really worth it to stop by at least one of these places, even if you have very little time in the town. These are great places to just watch the world go by.

Another fun thing to do in Hanoi is to rent a motorcycle – or hire a local student for the day – and ask them to take you to some temple and pagodas outside of Hanoi city. On top of experiencing the thrill of driving in chaotic traffic, you’ll have the rare opportunity to really meet the locals. Most of the monk will indeed be more then happy to show you around in exchange of a small donation. Money definitely well spent!

Have a good Monday everyone!
H.

City Life : Hanoi

I'll always remember our arrival in Hanoi: it was late, dark, and as we were entering the city in a cab we notices that regardless of the late hour, people were still everywhere on the street, selling, eating, just going about their business.

As we slowly made our way to our hotel and settle in our room, it became obvious that noise would be an issue - at least for the first days...

It's as if the city never falls asleep. Or perhaps for just a few hours, somewhere between 3h00 Am and 5h00 Am, right before the loud speakers encourage us to get out of bed and stretch.

Pollution is another big issue in Hanoi. Usage of fuel with lead and the obsolescence of most of the vehicles on the road - not to mention their extremely high number - are the main source of air pollution. While authorities are aiming at a maximum level of 0,02 mg of suspended air particles by cubic meter, the reality in urban zone has been closer to the 0,04 or 0,05 for the last five years.

I guess that would explain why breathing mask are being sold as fashion accessories...

Than being said, Hanoi is fun to wander around. One of the best thing to do is to just get lost in the city's old quarter, the Hoan Kiem District. In this mazelike neighbourhood you'll find everything from century old houses to temple and a variety of stores, the best and the worst...

Originally, the neighbourhood was home to the 36 guilds of Vietnam who, in the 13th century, established themselves in this part of town. Each guild had there own designated street : one for candles, one for lanterns, tailors had there spot and so one. In time, more and more merchants added to the original 36 streets but you'll still find a definite tendency for the merchant to regroup.

What I call the ''Embassies'' Neighbourhood - is another fun place to wander around. Located far west of the Hoan Kiem District, this area is home of Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex. Unfortunately, the Mausoleum was close during our visit but we still were able to visit the park where you'll be able to visit Ho Chi Minh museum, HCM Stilt House and the One Pillar Pagoda.

This area of town is also home to many foreign embassies. Most of them establish themselves in old colonial houses. A stroll along one of those large boulevard, surrounded with century old trees and colourful colonial houses make for a refreshing afternoon.

Well, that's it for now. Next post: A few nice relaxing spot of Hanoi and more pictures. Have a good day every one!!

H.

Vietnam's many faces

Vietnam’s cultural diversity is a major selling point with tourists of all places. Specifically, visitors like to ride up to Sa Pa to brush up with the Hill tribes.

Although there are some major social issues resulting with the rise of mass tourism in this area, the experience can definitely a major highlight of your trip and is more then worthwhile. So should you decide to brush up with the montagnards, we recommend looking for smaller agencies that have the well being of the community at heart. We traveled with Freewheelin and can only recommend them (see previous post).

In the article below, you’ll find a little more information on the country’s different tribes.
Enjoy it!

H.

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There are many sides to any culture. Vietnam alone is rich with 53 minority ethnic groups. Counting approximately 11 millions inhabitants, the hill tribes – also called Montagnards - count for 14% of the country’s total population. Each with there own culture and way of life, they are divided in eight different ethno linguistic groups of five major linguistic families.

First there is the Austro-Asia family, which includes the Viet-Muong and Khmer-Muong groups. Regrouping 24 different tribes, this linguistic family is the most important of the country. Then we find the austronesian language family, with five different ethnic groups, and the thai-kadai family in which we found 12 ethnic groups. The sino-tibetan family counts for nine different ethnic groups. Last but not least, the Hmong-Dao family counts “only” three different ethnic groups but is none the less the largest group of Vietnam population wise.

The hill tribes have an ambivalent status in the country. On the one hand, their rights are officially recognised by the Vietnamese Socialist Party: “The State of the socialist Republic of Vietnam represents the unified State made up of all nationalities cohabiting on the Vietnamese territory. The State applies the policy of equality, unit and mutual assistance between nationalities and formally prohibits any act of discrimination and national division. Nationalities have the right to speak and write in their language, to preserve their identity like promoting their noble habits, their rites, their traditions and their culture"

The hill tribes are also well represented in the media with frequent articles on their culture and the different challenges they face. But these good words don’t seem to help with the daily poverty issue many of them face. In fact, more then 75% of all hill tribes people live in poverty whereas only 30% of the viets face the same difficulties. (Viets are members of the kinhs ethnic groups whereas Vietnamese in use to name all the country’s inhabitants. NDLR)

But in spite of the many obstacles resulting from their precarious economical situation, it is the threat of acculturation that remains their biggest challenge. Several factors are to be taken into account when trying to understand this “vietnamisation” of their way of life.

The use of Vietnamese language in school is a major issue. Another important factor is the immaterial aspect of a major part of the cultural heritage of these tribes. Moreover, only about thirty tribes have their own writing, which therefore complicates even more the safeguarding intangible heritage’s question.
Finally, the financial amounts allocated for the protection of each ethnic group’s inheritance is defined according to the size (population count) of each group. In short, the smaller the group is, the smaller the amount is.

That being said, several initiatives were recently put in place to ensure the cultural perennity of these people. Among those, the publication of books in original ethnic language, and the possibility, for certain tribes, to receive part of their educations in their mother tongue are expected to have great impacts.
In addition, the Socialist Party approached the UNESCO in order to officially recognise some hill tribes practice as official intangible world heritage. Already, the gongs culture of the central highlands Tan Nguyen tribe received the precious title. Whether this new title will actually lead to real and concrete actions for the moment still remains to be seen.

Visit
We highly recommend a visit to Hanoi

Ethnographic museum to learn more about the hill tribes. Rich with many documents and interesting display – an exterior garden allows us to visit different tribes traditional houses – the permanent collection is a must!
Hanoi Ethnographic museum
Corner of Nguyen Du & Le Duan st
Phone: 0084 (4) 850 42 66
Entry fee

Ecotourism in Vietnam : a long, beautiful road lies ahead...

Here is the first article written for another website. Hope you'll like it!!

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Ecotourism in Vietnam

Helping to build a country. Taking part to a global movement and– if only for a single trip – bring water to the big millwheel of social and economical development of a region. That is, in short, what ecotourism is all about. And that is exactly what you’ll be doing when travelling with Freewheelin tours. Not to shabby for this little independent travel agency founded a little over ten years ago. But beyond these –very- noble concerns for sustainable development, Fredo Binh and his team is first and foremost inviting you to a incursion in the heart of Vietnamese daily life and in the world of the hill tribes people.

Freewheelin tours is a small independent agency located in the heart of Hanoi city’s old town. Its founder, Fredo Binh, a Metis born in France that came back to the country about 14 years ago, is a free spirit that loves nothing more then riding his bike throughout the country.

During these trips, he discovered the beauty of the backcountry and the unlimited hospitality of the hill tribes’ people. And developed over the years solid friendships rooted in the respect of each other and in the pleasure of sharing. It’s thus quite naturally that M. Binh accepted the proposal of foreign tourists who asked him, in 1994, to guide them in the mountain.

With no previous experience, M. Binh takes on the challenge and act as an independent guide taking this curious couple well off the regular travel agencies road. Aside from a few bumps on the road, he first trip is a success and both guide and tourists are greatly satisfied with their experience. This crazy idea makes its way and an even crazier project is slowly takes form.

Far goes a little project…

The rest is a classic tale of success: with the opening of its frontiers, Vietnam is welcoming an on growing number of curious travellers looking for change of scenery and exotic adventures. Travel agencies and guides are in demand and business opportunities are numerous. Like many other, Fredo Binh sees the possibilities and tries his luck. But unlike many other, he refuses to follow the mass and creates a very unique agency.

To an effective but victim of its own need of constant efficiency mass tourism, in which tourists are moved from one site to the other in huge buses, barely having time to actually see and much less feel the places, M. Binh opposes a tourism of slow visits and encounters. Instead of trying to jam many sites in little time, he focuses and chooses carefully where he’ll take you. Instead of nights spent in government run hotels, he offers nights spent in family houses.

Although clever and at the time completely innovative, this project however must tackle a very real cultural shock issue. No matter how welcoming they may be, the hill tribes’ traditional way of life is miles away of the most basic touristic standards. An adjustment is thus necessary and the idea of a partnership between the young travel agency and the different hosting villages comes to life. In exchange of a roof and meal for his curious tourists, M. Binh invests in the improvement of the villages’ infrastructure and donates a part of his income the hosting families.

By doing so, he takes them out of economic poverty too often heavy of consequence. Indeed, approximately 75% of the ethnic population live in great poverty compared to only 30% with the Kinhs (Vietnamese).

To this day, Fredo Binh is the man behind the improvement of hygienic condition of several families, thanks to the installation of septic pits and water treatment systems. In addition, his families learned how to protect themselves of viral and bacterial infection by educated on the matter and by making small adjustment to their way of life.

…on a long, never-ending road

Freewheelin tour is also working on bigger scale project. Among thus, the creation of a nature retreat and of a museum dedicated to the Nung An tribes in the Quan Uyen commnity. Or the establishment of a fishing pond in the Be Be village to help feed the families without destroying the natural environment. Or the building of a cable bridge in Lao Cai region allowing hill tribes children to get to school in flood period.

Other major projects include the foundation of a touristic school in Vu Linh province. The school will allow children to get an education in hotel trade techniques leading to an international diploma. An un-dreamed of opportunity as this kind of education is for now rarely completed by the hill tribes youngsters.

For M. Binh: “Such a project will allow them to be actors of the development of their province and thus have a better control on it.” Up to now, Freewheelin reinvests up to 60% of its profits in the visited communities and acts as a true vector of development. Without jeopardising the cultural identity of the said communities.

“The fast economic growth Vietnam and the modern world influence do have repercussions on the hill tribes way of life.” Continues M. Binh. “However, loosing cultural identity doesn’t have to be their faith. That being said, we did notice that some under-represented tribes or others that are more fragile already suffered upheavals, which resulted either in their assimilation or, in the worst case, their disappearance. But others, with better anchoring, or that show more flexibility, seems to resist the wave of progress without loosing their identity. Flexibility and cultural strength is a major asset. Access to education and the comprehension of the modern world will bring them just that and thus give them a chance to play their future without necessarily having to sacrifice their identity.”

So far, several villages and communities benefit of this collaboration with Freewheelin tours. But the amount of work that remains to be done is big and the challenges, numerous. Meanwhile, it is reassuring to be able to count on the private initiative of small business owners to ensure that travel and sustainable development do go hand in hand.

Freewheelin Tours

04, Luong Ngoc Quyen St, Hanoi Phone: 0084 (4) 926 27 43

Time travel

So I've decided that I'll go somewhere late March, early April but still don't know where exactly. There are so many possibilities and so many things that can go wrong when am planning to leave without official vacation time that planning seem completely useless. If all goes like plan, I'll end up going to Panama to take my scuba certification.

If all goes wrong, I'll end up going in Las Vegas for a few days - squatting the desert rather then the Strip. Sea or desert.... Although I LOVED my Egyptian desert adventure (which you'll read about soon enough!), I really hope the diving plan falls through. We'll just have to see.

In the mean time, I've decided to start posting things pertaining to my previous travel. Now the fun thing with this is that I get to relive these trips all over again. For now I'll start with my trip to Vietnam last year. Three amazing weeks, cruising from Hanoi to HCMC, meeting amazing people and finally coming to face with the real Asian thing. Which was not always easy...

Here is a little something I wrote about the experience that was posted on another website for some time. There will be more post on Vietnam soon so visit me often!

H.

Here she goes again, around her world

Well, here it is. (French at the bottom)

I've been thinking about this for a little while and finally decided to go ahead with this project. I figure this will be an easier way to do something interesting some of my work and share it with the rest of the world. And, really, it's a lot easier to maintain then the website I did before....

So, what to expect here?

This is mostly a travel blog. I love to move around, exploring new cities, country, and culture. I have tons of travel stories and this seems like the best way to share them. It also helps that am big on writing and taking pictures. With a little luck, some of these posts will distract you. If they can be helpful, even better. Heck, I sure hope I can come across some other travel savvy buddies and we can exchange tips and stories.

From time to time you'll also find post on culture - literature, movies and photography - and food. Those are my two other majors interests and feed me on a daily basis. And I want to brag and show off some of my pictures too. What can I say.... I've always been a sucker for a cute smile or a good compliment!

So I hope you'll like this!

H.

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Le voici enfin.

Il y a déjà un petit moment que je réfléchis à ce projet et c'est aujourd'hui que l'aventure commence. Après tout, bloguer est fort probablement la façon la plus simple et la plus rapide de partager mon travail et mes pensées avec le reste du monde.

Alors... À quoi s'attendre sur ce blog?

D'abord et avant tout des histoires de voyage. J'adore bouger, explorer de nouvelles villes, nouveaux pays, découvrir de nouvelles cultures. J'ai des tonnes d'histoires et d'anecdotes de voyages et ce blog semble être la meilleur façon de les partager. Et j'adore écrire et prendre des photos alors ça devrait être plutôt intéressant... Avec un peu de chances, certains de ces commentaires vont vous distraire. Et si vous pouvez y retrouver des informations qui seront utiles à vos voyages, encore mieux. Après tout, moi aussi j'espère bien rencontrer d'autres passionnés de voyages et partager trucs et histoires.

Vous trouverez aussi de temps en temps des commentaires sur la culture - littérature, cinéma et photographie - et sur la bouffe. Ce sont là mes autres champs d'intérêt et ces activités me nourissent au quotidien. Et très honnêtement, j'ai envie de montrer quelques-unes de mes meilleures photos...

Ah oui! Pourquoi bilingue? Pour le moment c'est un voeux pieux de ma part. Je veux que le français ait sa place sur le web. Mais c'est pas mal plus long...

Allez, j'espère que cela vous plaira!

H.